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Jeroen Merk, a researcher on the Worldwide Institute of Social Studies of Erasmus College Rotterdam—and one of many few lecturers who’s investigating the megasuppliers—says their business model is deliberately organized to keep consumers separated from factories. If manufacturers uncover what factories charge, they could work with them directly and hold the margin for themselves. Some corporations ordering garments by megasuppliers, he says, don’t know which factories they have been made in—or even which nations.

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